Brandade

Skepticism abounded on that slightly chilly day at the dining room table in Hyde Park, New York. Ten aspiring young chefs sat around a large round dining table under a tent on the lawn, being served by upper class men at the Culinary Institute of America. The menu listed our appetizer as "brandade," and somebody at the table said it was salted cod whipped with potatoes. My own opinion was that this was probably going to be just as gross as eating those canned anchovies my mother liked to put on her pizza. Some of my new classmates vowed not to even touch it. Some just looked nervous.

The small pot of brandade was set in front of me, along with a couple slivers of baguette. At this point in my life I refused to be outdone. I was 20 years old, had an incredible resumé and no desire to appear the slightest bit feminine when it came to my work ethic, or my eating habits. As I recall I was only a week away from eating a chocolate covered grasshopper in front of my entire class in order to retain my pride and dignity. I smeared a decent helping of the salt cod on the baguette and shoved it in. Luckily, it was one of the most delicious things I've ever had the pleasure of eating. And now, even though I hate the chill of winter, I know it's not all bad because it signals to me that it is time to make the brandade. I made it this morning, 10 years after I first became enamored with the humble dip, and I sit here shoveling spoonfuls of it in as I type (sans bread at this point in my life, I'll even eat it cold straight out of the fridge!).

There are so many different recipes and methods and a rich history surrounding brandade. Brandade is actually the reason that explorers were able to last out on the ocean for months at a time, and it's the reason our ancestors were able to settle here (America).  As you can imagine, when you are stuck on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean for months on end, you make it work when it comes to preparing meals. So sure, brandade can be made without potatoes or milk or even garlic. But if you have those ingredients it can only get better! Here's how I made it this morning:

Brandade:    Yd: 2 quarts

1 pound salt cod

6 yukon gold potatoes

1/2 cup cream

3 cups milk

3 cloves garlic

3/4 cup olive oil

1/3 pound butter

salt and pepper to taste

Soak the cod for 2 days. Change the water each day. This pulls the excess salt out of the fish and makes it palatable. I've been known to use fresh cod if I'm in a hurry, it still taste great. 

When the cod is ready to cook peel the garlic and smash the cloves with the back of a knife. Let it sit for 5 minutes, as this allows the beneficial enzymes in the garlic to react in order to provide maximum health benefits.

Peel and dice the potatoes. 

Place the cod, potatoes and garlic in the pot and cover with milk and cream. The cream keeps the milk from curdling. Cook on medium heat until the potatoes are tender.

Drain off the excess milk and add the butter and olive oil, reserving a little olive oil to drizzle on top.

Season with salt and pepper and beat the mixture with a whisk until it becomes somewhat smooth. 

Place in a nice dish and drizzle some olive oil on top.

Enjoy with some toasted bread or just eat it straight off the spoon!